Piper Street's restaurant scene is nearly as competitive as Brunswick Street's. Open seven years, Annie Smithers' was part of an early guard. She's breezed through the honeymoon period, consistently produced a hat-worthy experience, and recently added a front bar where you can pop in for thin, crisp buffalo mozzarella pizza or a flavour-packed coq au vin. In the restaurant proper - a brick-walled, blondwood space - much of the produce used comes from Smithers' garden, a serious market plot in Malmsbury. On offer could be smooth and silky rabbit rillettes with toast and cornichons; lamb cooked three ways (crumbed shoulder, grilled cutlet and slow-roasted neck), served with cabernet vinegar and roasted tomato reduction; or perhaps a brined, grilled pork sirloin with apple, celery, cider, mustard and an elegant whorl of mash. Service at its best is slick, but can be variable. Dessert keeps it sweet with chocolate-sauced profiteroles or spiced yoghurt parfait, wonderfully clean and cooling with a great crunch of almond crumble.

Open Fri–Sun noon–5pm; Thurs–Sun 6pm–late
Typical prices E $18.50 M $34 D $14.50
Cards AE MC V Eftpos
Wine A varied list offering a broad choice
Owner Annie Smithers
Chefs Annie Smithers & Daniel Whelan
Seats 35; bar

And … The casual new bar with blackboard menu can cater for around 20 drop-ins.