Bright’s Simone family spoke the language of the seasons years before city restaurateurs started paying lip service. They continue to celebrate their region and its Italian heritage with dishes such as baby Harrietville trout, smoked gently over pine, the flesh just warm and melting, served with perfectly ripe quarters of heirloom tomato. Pasta remains a strength: little clouds of gnocchi afloat in a delicate pea and cheese sauce, or al dente strands of squid-ink spaghetti with seafood. Mains also celebrate Alpine produce: perhaps a trio of goat, variously braised, smoked and cured. Salads are seasonal and help counterpoint meat-heavy main courses. The Victorian-era villa oozes charm and tradition, but some menu gestures to the modern - such as a dessert of asparagus panna cotta cut into the shape of playing-card suits and served with rhubarb batons - may jar a little. A warm welcome and professional service are perennials.

Open Tues–Sat 6.30–10pm
Typical prices E $25 M $36 D $15
Cards DC MC V Eftpos
Wine Long, strongly regional with Italian accents and a cellar of notable local-hero back vintages
Owners George & Patrizia Simone
Chefs Patrizia & Anthony Simone
Seats 60; outdoor seating; private room; bar

And … There’s house-made bread, sometimes three varieties.