Maurice Esposito's smart seafood restaurant has an inviting familiarity. Is it the history encompassed by its Carlton corner, the simple produce-driven cooking or the timeless hospitality? Eschewing the share-plates fad, Esposito offers traditional courses; good linen, elegant stemware and keenly focused yet nicely relaxed service – and it feels good to still find dining like this. Sustainable seafood takes centre stage. Perhaps a clever entree of calamari filled with a sweet prawn farce plated prettily with tiny spheres of salmon roe, or delicate smoked snapper ravioli teamed with gutsy feta, grapes and shards of fried artichoke for texture. Expertly cooked rock flathead, grilled Dory or crisp-skinned snapper with a bug-stuffed zucchini flower may feature, and there's always something for those with meatier cravings, perhaps a perfectly pink quail saltimbocca and good steak. A lemon cheesecake mousse with cherry sorbet and pistachio meringue may be a little busy, but certainly delivers sweet contentment.

Open Mon–Fri noon–3pm; Mon–Sat 6–11pm
Typical prices E $21 M $38 D $18
Cards DC AE MC V Eftpos
Wine A quality, compact list of local and international labels and varietals; some great seafood partners;
BYO (corkage $15 a bottle)
Owner Maurice Esposito
Chef Mirella Willingham
Seats 70; private room

And … There are good-value meal deals at lunch and dinner.